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Trouble Shooting Your Skylighter Wireless Electric Firing System (GN6020/GN6021)

Trouble shooting your electrical firing system:

Here at skylighter occasionally we get calls about firing systems not working, usually the problem the customer is experiencing can be resolved with a little trouble shooting. To help you get your system up and running in the event of a problem first check this trouble shooting guide. It covers both of our 12 cue wireless firing systems (GN6020 - GN6021) and skylighter ematch dip-kit (GN5050)

Either system (GN6020 - GN6021)
  • Are the batteries new?

    • If the system isn’t working the first thing to try are new batteries.
  • Is the remote on? (black switch on the top or side of remote should be switched to “ON”)

    • Is the remote light on? (Red light on remote) If the remote is on but the remote light is not lit the batteries in the remote maybe dead.
  • Does the systems power light come on?

    • The test light (blue) or fire light (red)? If not and you have not yet put in new batteries do so now.
  • When ignitor(s) are plugged into the speaker terminals and the unit is switched to test does the continuity LED turn on for each cue an ematch is plugged into? The continuity lights should come on for each of the corresponding Cue connections you have made to the Field Module.

    • For GN6020: The continuity LEDs are the red test lights at the top of your box, between the Test light and the keyswitch.

    • For GN6021: The continuity LEDs are the blue test lights inline with each speaker terminal.

    • If the continuity lights do not come on the ematch is probably bad (refer to Match Problems below) or you may have a disconnect in your wiring.
  • When you push any button on the remote and the system is switched to “fire” do you hear an audible clicking? (The clicking sound is the relay)

    • If not the batteries in the remote may be dead or inserted backwards. Check the batteries and try again.

    • After checking the remote batteries if you still don’t hear a clicking check the remote number, match that with the field module (both parts should have a matching number on a sticker).

    • If you do hear a clicking sound try inserting a Christmas light bulb into one of the sets of speaker terminals [like you’d insert an ematch], does it light up?

      • If it does not light up it could still be the batteries but it’s probably a short in your firing system. Contact skylighter for further trouble shooting.

      • If it does light up your problem is most likely your ematches or your circuit (Refer to Circuit and Match Problems below).
GN6021 Only

GN6020 Only

  • If you’re using the power supply (transformer), it will only work when batteries are inserted into the field module [only older models].
Circuit and Match Problems:

  • Check your circuit. Visually examine all the wires running from one connector on your Field Module all the way out to the fireworks device and back to the other connector on the Field Module. Make sure that everything is connected from one end to the other. Make sure bare wire is touching bare wire at all connections. Be sure that the wires going out to the firework are not touching the wires coming back to the Field Module. This would cause a short. Be sure the wires inserted into the cue position in your Field Module are stripped of insulation down to bare wire and that the bare wire is touching the interior metal clips of the Field Module connections. Jiggle them some in the Field Module connector.

  • If your circuit connections are all good, then try replacing the electric match. We recommend you first check the continuity of each electric match by using our ematch tester, GN5005. If you don’t have an ematch tester, you can use your Field Module to test the match. Do not use a regular electrical continuity tester, as it will probably generate enough test current to accidentally fire your electric match. Replace the old ematch with a new one, and check continuity on that cue again. If you have continuity, then connect the ematch to your firework, and then check continuity again.
Skylighter ematches have two usual points of failure:

  1. To much pyrogen. The pyrogen is conductive because of the high metal content. If you dip more than just the very tip of the ematch the additional area will lower the ematch’s resistance, lowering the amperage flowing through the bridge wire so the bridge wire will not ignite.

  2. Pyrogen not mixed enough. Skylighter’s ematch heads use an extremely fine bridge wire (~48AWG). If the pyrogen is not well mixed, it will not be sensitive enough to light during the short period of time that the wire takes to melt open.

Other advice:
  • Have you tested continuity of each match? Be sure to check continuity of your ematches with an ematch tester or switch to test on your firing system and make sure the light, next to where the emath is plugged in, is lit.

  • Check ematch resistance using a VOM. Resistance should be about 1Ω (ohm).

  • Skylighter’s ematches require about 1amp to fire in series, make sure your battery can deliver that load.

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