Instructions for Using

12 Cue Remote Control Electrical Firing System
(#GN6020)

 

INTRODUCTION

Your Remote Control Firing System is an electrical ignition system used to control and fire pyrotechnic devices, primarily in fireworks displays.  It can be used either indoors or outdoors.  It can fire more than one electric match at one time if they are wired in series.

 

Your system consists of three parts:

-         The Field Module

-         The Remote Control

-         The 110 volt AC adapter for the Field Module

 

Remote Control (white) and Field Module (black) (AC Adaptor not shown)

 

It is a very simple system to use.  To fire any fireworks using this electrical firing system, you need:

-         A fireworks device

-         One or more electric matches (ematches)

-         Shooting wire, optional (sometimes called zip or scab wire)

-         The Field Module

-         The Remote Control

-         You might find it handy to have some wire cutters and strippers and a roll of masking tape as well. We also recommend you use Skylighter’s Ematch Tester (GN5005) to be sure each electric match will work, before using them.

 

 

HOW TO USE THE SYSTEM:

Put a new battery in the Remote Control.  First, check your Remote Control and make sure it has a fresh battery in it.  We recommend changing to a new battery every time you are going to fire a display.

 

Turn the Remote Off.  Hold the Remote Control in your hand with the buttons facing up, so you can read them. 

 

Remote Control

 

On the front end, beside the antenna, is a small black slider switch.  This is the Safety Switch for the Remote.  Slide the switch to the right hand position, away from the antenna. 

 

Remote Control Safety Switch in Off Position

 

This turns the Remote off, and will prevent it from accidentally firing anything before you want it to.

 

WARNING!

Do not turn the Remote Control on until you are ready to actually fire your devices.

 

Put new batteries in the Field Module.  Check your Field Module, and make sure it has fresh batteries.  (Batteries are not necessary if you will be using the 110-volt AC adaptor.)  It uses 12 1.5-volt AA batteries.  We recommend changing to new batteries every time you are going to fire a display. Verify you have power by turning the key switch to On.

 

Turn Field Module keyswitch to the right to “On”

 

Then set the rocker switch to the Test position ( || ).  Then rock the switch to the Fire position

 ( | ).  The red Test lights should come on in both positions. 

 

Make sure “Fire” and “Test” lights come on

 

If “Fire” and “Test” lights don’t come on, check your batteries or your AC adaptor or power cord connection.  NOTE: If both “Test” and “Fire” lights appear to be dim, then one or more batteries may be weak.  You should replace the batteries.  If one light comes on and the other doesn’t, contact Skylighter.

 

If you have power, turn the key switch back to Off. 

 

Connect ematches to fireworks.  You use your system by first connecting an ematch to your firework (either to the fuse or elsewhere).

 

This system is ideally suited for firing “fronts.”  A front is typically a line of similar fireworks devices (shells, comets, mines, etc.) fired at the same time.  However, any combination of single or multiple series electric matches may be fired. It is also great for firing consumer fireworks displays on July 4th or at other times. 

 

Connect ematches to Field Module.  You then run the two wires (also called leads, or lead wires) from your ematch to one of the positions (1 through 12) on the Field Module.  Connect both wires from each match to the clips. 

 

Ematch wires connected to Field Module cue #1

 

It does not matter which wire goes into which colored clip.  Your system enables you to attach fireworks devices to as many as 12 different firing positions, called “cues.”  Each cue corresponds to a number 1 through 12 on your Remote Control and on the 12-position Field Module.  When you fire position number 1 on your Remote Control, it ignites whatever is attached to position number 1 on the Field Module.  Any cue can fire one or more electric matches at the same time, as long as they are connected together in series.  For instance, you could launch one aerial shell.  Or, by ematching them in series, as many as 6 shells could fire at the same time with the push of a single button.  To fire more than one ematch per cue, you simply wire your fireworks together in one series circuit.  No matter how many ematches you connect in series, you will eventually have only two wires left unconnected.  These two end wires go to one cue on your Field Module.

 

Ematches wired “in series”

 

Contrary to what you may think, when the first ematch k in a series fires, it does not break the circuit for the rest of the series.  If the whole series has continuity before firing, all devices will fire when you press the numbered button on your Remote Control.

 

Check continuity. Once all components are connected to the Field Module, you should check the continuity of your circuits.  This just ensures that each of your ematches will receive the electrical pulse when you are ready to fire.  Your Field Module has a built-in continuity tester, so you can check the integrity of each of the 10 firing circuits to be sure that all circuits are complete and ready to fire.  Do not use ordinary electrical continuity testers. Commercial circuit testers often generate enough test current to unintentionally fire the fireworks devices, with possibly catastrophic, unexpected results.  When testing, be sure all people are safely away from the fireworks devices you are testing.

 

To test continuity, turn the key switch to “On.”  Then set the rocker switch to “Test.”  The red test lights at the top of your box, between the Test light and the keyswitch should come on for each of the corresponding Cue connections you have made to the Field Module. 

 

Cues 1-3 Testing Good
(Keyswitch set to “On,” rocker switch set to “Test,”
 only cues 1, 2, and 3 have devices connected)

 

If you have made connections to all 12 cues, you should have 12 Test lights on.  If the light does not come on for one or more of your circuits/cues, then you have a broken circuit somewhere.  This can be caused by any number of problems.  See the Troubleshooting section at the end of these instructions for help in diagnosing and correcting the problem.

 

If all your Test Lights come on, then all your circuits are ready to fire.  Once tested, if all components are still connected, you can begin firing your display.

 

NOTE:  If both “Fire” and “Test” lights appear to be dim, then one or more batteries may be weak.  Replace all of them.

 

NOTE: Continuity testing only tells you if there is a complete circuit, i.e. circuit is not open, not allowing current to flow - not able to fire electric matches.  However, a short circuit (for instance, if there is a staple cutting thru the insulation) may test “good”, but will not allow electric matches to fire. Make sure you have good connections (insulated from ground) and not shorted.

 

If you have problems you cannot resolve, email us at:  support@skylighter.com or call us at (540) 338-3877.  The Troubleshooting section below may help as well.

 

 

FIRING YOUR FIREWORKS DEVICES

Once your system is wired and continuity tested, you are ready to fire each device.  We recommend you practice this first with either ematches only, or with ematches connected to one or two small fireworks before taking on a whole fireworks show.  Get familiar with the way your system works, and the procedures you will need to use when you go “live.”  Better yet, do your testing in daylight.  It is much easier to troubleshoot when you can see everything laid out.

 

Here are the steps for shooting:

 

Raise the antenna on the Field Module to its fully extended and vertical position.

 

Turn the Field Module keyswitch to On.

 

Press the Field Module rocker switch to the Fire position.  The Fire light should come on.

 

Field Module Ready to Fire
(Keyswitch “On,” rocker switch set to “Fire”)

 

Cover your Field Module with some fireproof material.  The plastic lid that comes with your system is fine.  This will prevent sparks and flaming debris from damaging your system.

 

Walk to the place from which you will fire your show.  Visually check and make sure everyone is safely away from your fireworks devices.  If you are firing 1.4G (Class C, consumer) devices, this should be at least 140 feet.

 

Extend the antenna on the Remote Control.

 

Slide the black safety switch on the Remote Control to the left (toward the antenna). Your Remote Control and firing system is now ready to fire. 

 

Remote Control Safety Switch Ready to Fire

 

WARNING: Do not slide the safety switch to the On position until you are actually ready to fire your devices.  You can now fire any of the 12 cues one at a time.

 

To fire, press each numbered button on the Remote Control for about one second or until the firework ignites.  Each time you press a numbered button, the red Fire light will come on.

 

Remote Control When Firing

 

 

AFTER YOU FINISH SHOOTING

Set the Remote Control to off.  Slide the black safety switch on the Remote Control back to the right (off). Push the Remote Control’s antenna back in.

 

Turn the Field Module keyswitch off.

 

Set the Field Module rocker switch to the middle ( o ) position.

 

Remove the wires from the Field Module.

 

Wait 30 minutes and check for duds.  See if everything fired completely.

 

 

TROUBLESHOOTING

Problem: One or more test lights do not light up or a fireworks device did not fire.

Solution: Typically, you either have a bad circuit or a bad electric match.

·        Check your circuit.  Visually examine all the wires running from one connector on your Field Module all the way out to the fireworks device and back to the other connector on the Field Module.  Make sure that everything is connected from one end to the other.  Make sure bare wire is touching bare wire at all connections.  Be sure that the wires going out to the firework are not touching the wires coming back to the Field Module.  This would cause a short.  Be sure the wires inserted into the cue position in your Field Module are stripped of insulation down to bare wire and that the bare wire is touching the interior metal clips of the Field Module connections.  Jiggle them some in the Field Module connector.

·        Check the electric match.  If your circuit connections are all good, then try replacing the electric match. We recommend you first check the continuity of each electric match by using our ematch tester, GN5005.  If you don’t have an ematch tester, you can use your Field Module to test the match.  Do not use a regular electrical continuity tester, as it will probably generate enough test current to accidentally fire your electric match. Replace the old ematch with a new one, and check continuity on that cue again.  If you have continuity, then connect the ematch to your firework, and then check continuity again.